Tight, dry, and lifeless – does your skin often feel parched and dehydrated? Even when you apply layers of lotions and creams, high levels of TEWL (or Trans Epidermal Water Loss) can leave your skin feeling uncomfortably dry and sensitive, with noticeable signs of fine lines and/or hyperpigmentation. In fact, the more you ignore compromised TEWL levels, the faster your all-important pH barrier function is weakened. 

For building a stronger and healthier dermal barrier, it is imperative to check your current TEWL levels and begin using hydrating formulas that are unique to your dosha requirements. Here is a dermatologist’s guide to maintaining an optimum balance of TEWL levels : 

What is TEWL?

Let’s get a bit technical for a moment. Intimately tied to the various biological processes of human skin, TEWL is a scientific, natural, and physiological phenomenon that measures the ‘amount of water leaving the body through your skin’. Following our circadian rhythms, TEWL happens to everyone throughout the day, and more rapidly while we are sleeping. On an average, humans lose about 300-400 ml of water per day through the stratum corneum/epidermis. However it should be noted that this phenomenon is unrelated to sweating. 

Factors influencing TEWL 

While it is a natural process, a rapid increase in TEWL is a signal of barrier dysfunction – leading to a number of skin issues. 

1. Aging and TEWL

TEWL increases with age. Persistent TEWL = Chronic Dehydration and a Reduction in the Repair Capacity of the Skin Barrier. This further encourages development of more fine lines and other signs of aging, including reduced thickness and bounce with less resilience, due to a thinning collagen net.

2. Harsh Skin Care Products

Some Formulas, especially pH-imbalanced cleansers and toners with toxic/ synthetic ingredients gradually weaken the skin barrier over time.

3. Dry or Cold Weather

Extreme weather conditions (too hot or too cold) remove moisture from your skin. Even the most resilient skin in cold, dry weather (low moisture content in air) loses hydration from the epidermis resulting increasingly fragile and sensitive skin. Indoor heating also robs hydration from the dermal layers and increases overall TEWL levels. 

Conversely, when temperature rises, heat speeds up evaporation, making it hard to retain moisture, and you may even develop dry patches! Additionally, salt and enzymes in sweat can strip this pH barrier – also increasing TEWL levels. 

4. Overexposure to the Sun

Exposure to UVA, UVB, UVC rays without protective broad-spectrum sunscreen can break down lipids (oils) and proteins in dermal cells, which also results in increased water loss – again weakening the barrier. 

5. Stress, Lifestyle, Medical Conditions, and Genetics

Altered cortisol levels and certain medical conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea are linked to compromised pH barriers and can make skin more prone to damage and dehydration. People who have naturally thinner skin (Vata Dosha) or a weakened barrier (Pitta Dosha) are more prone to TEWL than Kapha Dosha. 

6. Chemical Irritants, Over-exfoliation, and Hot Water

Products with high AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, artificial fragrances, and many other common toxins in beauty products can disrupt the lipid balance of the skin, thin the outer layer, block or enlarge pores – accelerating water loss. 

Signs of High TEWL and Risk Factors 

For those who want to self-assess, here are some key signs of high levels of TEWL: 

• Tight and stretchy feeling, especially after cleansing. 
• Skin usually appears tired and sallow. 
• Fine lines become more visible, especially areas around the mouth and eyes. 
• Skin becomes easily reactive to products and shows signs of redness/ inflammation. 
• Even if you have oily skin, high levels of TEWL may show oiliness on the surface, but dehydrated skin underneath. 
• Overproduction of oil in Kapha skin. 
• Red or flushed appearance in Pitta dosha/ Sensitive skin. 
• Skin takes longer to calm or heal through its own natural repair process. 

5 Rules to Prevent TEWL with Puraveda  Organics

Rule1: The Combination of Humectants + Emollients 

To decrease TEWL, you need to moisturize your skin from within. For this, apply humectants like Hyaluronic Acid where each molecule can absorb 1000X times its weight (!) in water drawn from the air. 

While humectants attract and bond with water, they don’t lock-in moisture. So, along with humectants, oils or occlusives that can replenish and lock in optimum levels of moisture are imperative. Some of the most effective ones are – Shea Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Sesame Seed Oil, Coconut Oil, Avocado Oil, and more. You can find a combination of both (HLA + Expeller Oils) in their optimum ratio in our BioScience Peptide Complex.  

Rule 2: Use Non-Stripping Organic Cleansers 

Cleansers with sulfates (SLS/SLES) or high pH strip natural oils and damage the barrier. As a rule, always begin your morning/ evening regimen with our dosha-specific cleanser (Daily Foaming/ Pore Perfect/ SBR) that has supporting ingredients like Aloe Vera, Vitamins, and organic African Black soap base for gentle, effective cleansing. 

Rule 3: Hydrating Serums for Extra Moisture 

Adding an extra layer of serum with concentrated, deep-penetrating, hydrating ingredients provides twice the retention of moisture. Collagen Boost Serum (for skin over 35) or Rejuv Serum (for skin under 35) are proven to amplify hydration levels and produce firmer skin in under 60 days. A Dual-layer of serum is especially recommended during the night time. 

Rule 4: Moisturization for the Body too! 

Your body skin is also prone to TEWL damage, especially after a warm bath or change in environment. Use Vanilla Silk Body Butter that provides 24+ hour moisturization along with a healthy sheen and no dryness, whatsoever.  

Rule 5: Barrier Maintenance 

A weakened barrier and high TEWL are complementary states. To protect your  barrier from external aggressors, (especially free radicals) use antioxidant-rich products and gentle exfoliating formulas. 

All our formulations include hydrating natural expeller oils and barrier-strengthening botanicals that makes them a perfect companion to fight TEWL. Stay hydrated, use a humidifier, be relaxed, and don’t forget to spritz some hydrator mist to replenish skin on-the-go.